Andrew
Kennedy* Day
1 - Monday
Arrive Caracas airport mid-afternoon after nine hour flight from Madrid.
Get free WSF bus to Caracas which takes 4 hours because of a landslide
on the main road. Go through poverty-stricken shanty towns perched
on steep green hills. Feel like a tourist.
Dropped off at Plaza Venezuela where I ring a comrade and get various
hotel numbers which I ring from a table on a street corner. Eventually
one hotel has a room and after some difficulty I get there. It’s
in a rundown downtown area.
Four more French comrades (from Perpignan) are sent my way. Will share
with them. Meanwhile go for dinner with Quebecois human rights lawyers
who keep telling me I must lose the Castilian lisp. Hotel staff are very
solicitous about our safety in this area. Jetlagged, I try to sleep. Volcanic
snoring from comrades.
Day 2 - Tuesday
Walk with French comrades down the main Avenida Bolivar, which has been
blocked off, towards the enormous Hilton complex (now part co-op, part
Cuban-owned), the centre of the WSF. Stalls from government ministries
line the route.
Arrive at assembly point for the march which opens the WSF. Thousands
already here.
I hand out Fourth International leaflets in Spanish on Venezuela and 21st
century socialism. As soon as they see the word ‘Socialismo’
people almost rip the leaflets out of my hands. I can hardly keep up.
At one point all I can see is hands waiting to be filled with leaflets.
A student shows me round the Bolivarian University of Caracas, which has
3000 students and is situated in an old PDVSA (state oil company) building.
Tuition is free.
March eventually moves off. As we walk along we give out more leaflets
to Venezuelans lining the route who smile and say ‘welcome’
and ‘gracias’. A Peruvian comrade is puzzled as to why reformism
dominates the European workers’ movement.
For a moment I am equally puzzled, then I slip into Trot mode. A marine
biologist, a member of an indigenous people, the Wayu, explains to me
the very different ways in which they are treated by the Venezuelan and
Columbian governments.
Have changed to a single room and I try to get an early night but the
noise of the street wakes me up at the crack of dawn.
Day 3 – Weds
First day of the WSF proper. We take 2 hours to queue to pay and register.
Talk to two Catholic women inspired by liberation theology who came over
from Franco’s Spain in the 1960s. They work in the barrios, fully
support Chavez and talk of the successes of government programmes in tackling
child malnutrition.
Less inspiringly, I talk to a comrade from the Partido Comunista do Brasil
who thinks the Bolivians should wait for Brazil to become more economically
powerful and not engage in ultra-left adventures like nationalising oil
and gas.
Go to meeting chaired by Stuart Piper from Socialist Resistance, on workers’
self-management in Venezuelan factories and on participatory budgets in
Brazil. The two experiences don’t really get compared in any detail.
Too many speakers on the platform.
More details of the new left PT administration in Fortaleza are supplied
by comrades over lunch. They turn out to be from the new party, P-SOL,
but work closely with Luizianne Lins and the PT left.
Evening: Eventually manage to hook up with some British comrades from
Hands Off Venezuela. Lose diary, which contains my WSF participant’s
card, but Charley gives me another card which HOV have organised for me,
so that’s all right. He shows me round the WSF campsite in Parque
Carabobos.
It appears very relaxed, with stalls for cheap food and drink and it’s
much nearer to the main activities than my hotel. Security is good at
night. Lots of Venezuelans, including many from Caracas, have decided
to camp here.
Day 4 - Thursday
After another semi-sleepless night at the hotel, go to meeting on the
Peruvian Marxist Mariategui organised by some very serious young Peruvians.
The meeting is conducted in incredibly rapid Spanish – I catch about
thirty per cent. They seem very enthusiastic about Humala, the ‘Peruvian
Chavez’ now emerging.
On the school wall where the meeting is held there is a brilliant satirical
painting showing scenes from Venezuelan history. The last scene, of Caracas,
is relatively featureless and empty, showing that the future still has
to be built.
At the campsite, I talk to Katherin, a Venezuelan teacher of Spanish and
English, and to Marcela who works on a government programme which helps
people to re-train and to set up co-operatives and to a British comrade
from the de Menezes Family campaign.
Day
5 – Friday
Traffic gets me up early again. Decide to move to campsite. Go to another
meeting at the Hilton organised by and on the Latin American left which
seems very worthy, but leave before the end to go on the march of the
indigenous peoples.
When I reach the Plaza Venezuela people are gathered round the speakers
with no police in sight (just who on earth thinks Britain is more democratic
than Venezuela?). There is, however, a huge Kit-Kat sign to remind us
that Venezuela is still a capitalist country.
Then go to a meeting organized by Greg Wilpert, the founder of www.venezuelanalysis.com.
on post-capitalist alternatives. When we emerge from the metro we could
be in a European or North American city. Clean streets, shiny big commercial
buildings, policemen directing traffic. This was the base for the opposition
during the 2002 coup and during the referendum campaign. Feel out of place
in my WSF T-shirt.
The university is appropriately plush and the discussion is conducted
in English between North Americans and Brits, as far as I can tell. I
could be at an academic seminar at home. But interesting points are raised
about the problems of developing revolutionary consciousness and democracy.
Brilliant evening of Latin American music and dance in a venue nearby.
Very political and inspiring. I am beginning to understand the way in
which African, indigenous and Spanish influences intermingle in the music.
Great feeling of unity, of a continent stirring once again.
Back at the tents, young Chavistas talk, laugh and play music into the
small hours. Meanwhile it rains heavily and the floor of my tent becomes
a puddle. I achieve a certain level of resignation and even a couple of
hours’ sleep. The noise starts again at 7.30am.
Day 6 – Saturday
Bleary and blurry. Take cold shower behind a plastic sheet in the rain.
It’s not that bad! Steam rises from somewhere and I discover it’s
me. Really hard to talk Spanish this morning. Miss important meeting with
Venezuelan leftists because of losing my diary. Make the best of it by
using the time to begin writing this.
Run into a mother and daughter from England at a kiosk. Mother was born
here, supports the opposition and articulately explains why. Make some
points back without getting too defensive.
Afternoon. Marijuana March – a contradiction in terms. We march
out of the camp a few yards and then have a big party. There is ska, hip
hop and salsa on two stages and people surge into the main road, disgruntling
further Caracas’s car drivers.
Day 7 – Sunday
Wake up at 7.23am, seven minutes before the alarm is due to go off. Shower,
pack up tent and say goodbye, Try catch a free WSF bus to the airport.
Traipse around for some time, following misleading but well-meant directions.
Eventually end up at a fare-paying bus stop under a bridge.
Take a last look at Caracas and the hills and shanty towns on the way
to the airport.
Talk to two women from the Galician nationalist left in the check-out
queue.
They are working with the Venezuelan government to give some of the poor
from the barrios a new start as small farmers.
I say that I feel ready to go back home and start building solidarity.
They comment that I seem very ‘animado’. I am.
*Andrew
Kennedy is a supporter of Socialist Resistance in Britain and teaches
at the School of African and Oriental Studies, London.
|